Tuesday, 14 November 2023

14th November - Bruges to Ghent

Breakfast was so good at the little cafe opposite our accommodation that we returned there again today. We couldn't make any breakfast in our room if we tried - there isn't even a cup or a spoon. The rain was staying away and it was a pleasant 20 minute walk to the railway station, where we jumped on the first train heading to Ghent. 

Arriving there a little before midday, it was clear that the weather forecast for Ghent was pretty accurate, i.e. it was raining, but thankfully only lightly. Being us, we gave away the option of catching a bus and opted to walk the 20 minutes to the apartment which would provide our accommodation for the next three nights. As soon as we walked out of the railway station it was immediately obvious that Ghent is a totally different scale to Bruges. The buildings are typically four-storied or higher (compared to 2-3) and everything is much larger and more city-like. Cars, trams, buses and cyclists weave their way through the streets in a very orderly manner. There are few buzzers at pedestrian crossings but vehicles will readily stop if you walk out onto the road.

Inside Ghent railway station

Arriving in Ghent

Bicycles everywhere

We couldn't check into our apartment until 3pm but lockers are provided (for 5E) for you to store your luggage. We arrived at 12.30pm, fairly wet, and tried to book one of the lockers online. The website messed up but a guy turned up who must have been the manager. He opened a locker for us to use free of charge and gave us directions for finding a handy cafe or restaurant for some lunch. He was very helpful, and, as has been the case with everyone we have interacted with since we arrived in Belgium, was very friendly and welcoming. It's been lovely to be greeted so positively everywhere.

With our bags safely tucked away we put the umbrellas up again and walked 5 minutes to the closest cafe. Here I had a Flat White (so good) and we shared a tasty cinnamon pastry for lunch. After sheltering here for quite a while, and discussing our plan of attack for Brussels in two days' time, we came back to wondering how to spend the remaining and wet afternoon in Ghent. The weather forecast tomorrow is for a bright sunny day, so we're hopeful of having a leisurely explore around the historic centre then. As for this afternoon, we still couldn't check into our apartment for over an hour so opted to walk the 25 minutes into the old centre and just look about. 

In the end we walked right through the main area to the far side with the aim of checking out an older neighbourhood where a number of second-hand shops reside. Unfortunately, and possibly because it was such a wet day, most of them were closed. With no luck, and feeling quite wet by this stage, we spied another cafe to dry out and lie low in for a bit. John hadn't managed to find a decaf coffee so far today, and that's pretty much become a 'must' each day, so we dived in to get one. 




Feeling a little daunted by the wet walk back to our apartment we called it quits and caught a bus back to near our apartment. It was definitely the right call as the rain had intensified. It was just a short walk to a nearby supermarket where we stocked up on muesli for the next few days and bought some pasta and sauce to cook for dinner tonight. Our accommodation has a kitchenette so we are all set for the next few days. 

We also bought a bottle of wine at the supermarket and are enjoying our first glass of wine in ages. Beer is available here in vast supply. The restaurant we ate at a few nights ago had over 200 varieties to try, and there is at least one place in Bruges that has 400. We've been typically opting for the no or low-alcohol versions, but it is so hit and miss. With so many to choose from you really have no idea what it will taste like. Many of the beers on offer are 6-8% alc. 

It's been really interesting to see the bicycles being ridden everywhere. We are so used to seeing people in Nelson riding mountain bikes, whether electric or not, but those ridden here are typically completely different. The handle-bars are much more upright and they are designed as city bikes. They may have just one gear - since everywhere is flat. The transport system is heavily designed to cater for cycle traffic, for example stairways where there is a groove on the outside of the stairs for cycles to be wheeled up or down. 

Grooved channel on the RHS of the stairs for cyclists to push their bikes up or down